Good Mexican fare in Manhattan is a myth no more

February 18, 2010
by

Although New York is about 2,000 miles north of the border, Paquito's brings the heat, flavor and authenticity of Mexico to the middle of Manhattan. For under $9, you can get a meal of such button-popping proportions that you just might need to take a siesta.

The establishment's exterior may be unassuming, but this cozy takeout spot makes a successful attempt at authentic indoor decor, creating a unique Mexican villa feel. The walls are made of wood, and just above the counter is a terra cotta roof. Expanding upon the wood theme, the petite restaurant also boasts wooden Jesus figurines and plenty of wooden booths and tables to accommodate its customers. Many sombreros, ranging in material from suede to straw, line the walls.

I was surprised to see that only three people were working: a young lady behind the counter, a young man with an apron on and another young man with a helmet, who I assumed had the task of making deliveries. As I looked over the menu, reports of the approaching winter storm on the local Spanish news channel filled the slightly drafty room. I could faintly hear pleasant Spanish music coming from the kitchen.

The restaurant's short but sweet menu features typical Mexican-American dishes such as nachos, quesadillas, burritos and tacos. There is even a category on the menu specifically for vegetarians, ranging from an avocado salad to a spinach enchilada to a cactus burrito — yes, an actual cactus burrito. Not wanting to mix it up too much that day, I decided to order an Acapulco Burrito and a drink, which cost me only $8.71.

Before I even had time to put my money away and grab a table, my massive burrito was waiting for me at the counter. I grabbed the neon-orange tray and to my delight saw a hefty burrito covered in green chili sauce accompanied by a nice amount of pico de gallo and lettuce on the side. I hadn't even cut into it before steam oozed from the pores of the tightly-wrapped tortilla. Once I dove in, a mess of hearty black beans, sour cream, cheese and guacamole poured out onto my plate. This definitely isn't a burrito you can pick up and eat neatly with your hands. I recommend using utensils to avoid looking like a caveman.

I devoured my mess of a burrito until the plate was clean, getting a refreshing taste of tomato and lettuce with every bite. The meal may have been a bit sloppy, but certainly satisfying. The Acapulco Burrito was a pleasing mix of fresh ingredients bursting with heat.

The less-than-friendly wait staff and the cash-only policy might be slightly off-putting, but if you're on a budget and sick of the winter cold, Paquito's is a great place to feel a little of Mexico's heat on your tongue.