Ricardo Seco Fall/Winter 2015

Michelle Lim, Editor-At-Large

Titled “REAL,” Ricardo Seco’s Fall/Winter 2015 collection brings out the reality in modern Mexico’s street style, juxtaposed to his last season’s “DREAMS,” which was reminiscent of the Wixárika tribe.

In a backstage interview, Seco said of his inspiration, which pays homage consistently to his native country, “I wanted to show the new Mexico. The Mexico contemporary. The Mexico that you may not know, but what you can see when you go to Mexico.  We wear black in Mexico, too.”

Staying within a strictly black and white color palette actually allowed the designer to explore several different fabrics and textures, including leather, silk, cotton, wool and neoprene. Seco also presented varying silhouettes; while one look sported a cropped bomber jacket with leather skinnies, another featured an oversized, body-swallowing topcoat, accessorized with a martial arts-like belt cinched at the waist, all on top of slim trousers.

Seco stood firm with his steady theme of sportswear. Flattering jogger pants, chic windbreakers and athletic hooded jackets were some of his strongest and most wearable pieces, not only for city men, but also for college students transitioning into young professionals.

However, perhaps Seco’s more impressionable theme was layering unlikely pieces to create a fuller and surprisingly more complete expression.

One outstanding look consisted of a black neoprene sweatshirt with intricately cut-out patterns over another white fabric – all under a quilted leather jacket. Several other looks involved white cotton collared shirts underneath furry sweaters to embrace the winters ahead.

Seco’s trademarked New Balance sneakers were the singular pop of color. When asked why he always included such casual footwear for his seemingly formal collections, Seco said, “The guy that I dress is a sport man mixed with urban, sophistication. I wanted to make other shoes, like boots, but I don’t know…It’s something of my essence.”

Seco also said the sneakers may be what links this season from the last. “I still collaborate with ritual art through some color, but I use the color in a completely different way,” said Seco. “White with black. Orange with black. Green with black. Everything mixed with black. I think you will see different things, but it is continuous and congruent to the last season.”

Windswept hair and a leather backpack slung, Seco’s man blends perfectly with the cityscape background of the trendy New Museum on Bowery, and a live DJ thumping trippy lounge beats completed the show.

Email Michelle Lim at [email protected]