How will you spend your Thanksgiving break?
The Northern Spy
511 E. 12th St. (btw. Avenues A and B)
212.228.5100
Images
4.5 stars
Settling in for a meal at The Northern Spy is akin to collapsing in your living room easy chair. Low lighting, pale colors and painted park bench seating combine for a welcoming atmosphere with unpretentious dishes.
The first thing you notice is that everyone is on a date here. Even those two in the corner. The contrast of the wallpapered interior against the diners' inevitable Brooklyn plaid makes for a homey experience. It's noisy. Be prepared to shout at your dining companion.
Show up at dinner hours and you'll likely wait in the back of the restaurant for a table. If you have an ID, use that time to sample the Spy's expansive collection of libations. The hard cider is fizzy enough to offset a slightly acidic aftertaste and liquor service is transcendentally youthful; far from being pretentious, liquor is served in juice glasses.
Once seated, you're hard pressed to order wrong. The food's general feel is home cooking, elevated. It tickles the palate and slides down the throat easily. Start with the signature kale salad, composed of paper-shredder thin kale, chunks of cheddar cheese and nuts. Other salads highlight fresh, seasonal ingredients, but lack some visual flair.
Two noteworthy mains are freekeh risotto and polenta. The risotto's color is drab; it tastes of the November harvest, sweetened by mascarpone cheese. The polenta is an artistic take on a classic. You must order the baked eggs on top; they add texture and weight to an otherwise ordinary dish.
The carrot cake could instantly induce diabetic shock. The frosting is so creamy it could paint the sky. Skip the specials; this is the paradigm. Your wallet will most likely be a couple of Jacksons lighter by the end of the meal, but the meal is best enjoyed in courses. Paying homage to the slow food movement, it is meant to be savored.
