BUENOS AIRES — Dogs and street vendors: When living in New York, these are two things you encounter on a daily basis. The same is true in Buenos Aires, Argentina, but they somehow manifest themselves in a way utterly unique to this city.
In Buenos Aires, it is virtually unheard of for one dog to be walked alone. Instead, dog-walkers go around with packs of 10, 15 or even 20 dogs at a time. These dogs are surprisingly well-behaved, trotting along in rows, managing neither to trip on one another nor get twisted around their walker. Within the same pack, you will see small, fluffy dogs that resemble stuffed animals: chihuahuas, dachshunds, Labs, retrievers, German shepherds and St. Bernards look like they could possibly snack on the little ones if they get angry or hungry. Seeing a dog-walker in this city never ceases to amaze and amuse me. Of course, if you are walking down the street and see a fluffy mass approaching, you know you won’t be making it down the street without incurring some serious casualties.
Another obstacle on the streets of Buenos Aires is the street vendor. As a New Yorker, I am no stranger to people trying to sell me things as I walk. In New York, the common cart item is food. But in Buenos Aires, you can’t walk half a block before being offered a much more diverse range of goods. If I so desired, I can buy bras, jewelry, incense, boxers and large feather dusters, among other things from the vendors. And if you try to find refuge in a cafe or restaurant, they simply follow you inside.
The scene goes something like this: A vendor approaches you and quickly places his or her products down on your table without uttering a word. He or she moves throughout the restaurant performing the same act for your neighbors, while remaining silent. He then returns to your table and hovers over you for a while, using his hands to gesture at what he is offering you. In response to this, you can continue reading your book or chatting with the person at your table. If ignoring the vendor’s presence doesn’t work, you can say, “No. No, gracias.” Still nothing? Shake your head, wave your hand and say, “No, no los queremos. Honestly, sir, we really don’t want these.” After a while he will give up, pick up his oversized Nike sports socks, and small, colorful flashlights and screwdrivers to move on to his next victims.
Buenos Aires has been full of quirky surprises, but it has also made me feel somewhat at home — at least on a superficial level. Just like in New York, you’ll fit right in whether you are blonde, brunette or ginger; black, white and anywhere in between — as long as you don’t open your mouth and reveal the somehow always loud and garish American accent. Of course, when you dig even the tiniest bit beneath the surface, a deluge of differences come pouring out, and you’ll realize that this city has its own unique idiosyncrasies. The best way to spot these quirks is to just be on the street and watch the people interact with their city.
Suzi Brown is a foreign correspondent. Email her at [email protected].
