Calvin Luo F/W 2017

Grace Halio, Editor-at-Large

At just 21 years old, Calvin Luo is the youngest person to ever show at NYFW. His “Asexual” collection for Fall/Winter 2017 featured monochromatic hues interspersed with olive greens, subtle plaids and pops of cobalt and garnet. Statement coats and flowing skirts dominated the unisex collection while extra-long sleeves and belts accented the looks. One standout piece was a safari sweatshirt with the words “not interested in sex” embroidered in capital letters on the sleeve. It was paired with a delicate gray velvet skirt.

The final look was a simple but beautiful mid-length slip dress of the same material. Mesh shirts were layered under spaghetti strap pieces, maintaining the monochrome vibe, and models donned pointy toed boots in neutral hues and black patent leather. Luo’s workmanship and training shined through in a layered camel coat with pristine exposed darts.

After the 31 piece collection was shown, the runway dimmed and the music changed. The room was bathed in blue and pink light as six models wearing Lenovo Capsule Collection pieces emerged in synchronized dance. Luo worked with Lenovo to show the power of digital technology in fashion. The lightweight PVC leather garments each had panels of LED lights that flashed different phrases. The PVC garments were beautifully structured, but the trench coats, sleeveless dresses and high-necked jackets were difficult to see and fully appreciate in the dim light. Despite this, Luo proved that the future of fashion is far beyond gendered garments, and that those garments are sure to keep evolving in their own hi-tech ways.

Email Grace Halio at [email protected].