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Phoebe English F/W 2018

By Sophie Shaw, Editor-at-Large

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Phoebe English F/W 2018

Slashes, cuts, and netting were abound at the Phoebe English Fall/Winter 2018 presentation. The collection included eight black and white looks, all of which included elements of deconstruction. The sense of deliberate ruin was also highlighted by strips of black fabric that was scattered on the floor.

According to the show notes, the collection may be interpreted as a visual poem, displaying different manifestations of loss. With each cut, like on a black satin dress that reveals haphazard slices of fabric taken away and an asymmetrical skirt, there is an obvious absence of material. This is also true for a black shirt dress with a cut-out shoulder, scattered buttons and an angular, asymmetrical hem. A white button up shirt mirrored the black dress, adding a sense of cohesion through the deconstruction. Large netting layered over a dress and under a skirt also added a punk tone to the collection.

A mix of textiles, including transparent netting, stiff shirting, black satin and velvet kept the collection dimensional and tactile. The monochrome, mostly black color scheme, however, did not bring any excitement, but the twists in the construction of each garment were successful.

Email Sophie Shaw at [email protected]

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